Sunday 24 March 2013

TRAVEL AND HOLIDAY - ANSELM KITENGELA GLASS WORKS ...


ANSELM KITENGELA GLASS WORKS - KENYA

After having been on wheels and feet going after wild life, for quite some time, I was contemplating what to do next on reaching Nairobi. My daughter suggested a visit to Kitengela Glass works on the other side of Nairobi National Park. I said no way; I haven’t come to Masai Land to see glass being blown and that to from scrap beer bottles and other sorts. I said I would rather go to Belgium to see the real thing, which is also on my cards for long. My daughter can be very persistent, so after much persuasion I finally agreed to visit Kitengela Glass works and the Kajuri Beads factory (see my next blog). I can assure everyone it was a time well spent.
Kitengela Glass is located opposite the Nairobi National Park, at the end of a rough road. Despite this, the constant stream of visitors from all over the world never stops.
The long drive over the stony ground - was dusty, back breaking and most uncomfortable and mostly in Masai country. However Toyotas are Toyotas so no major mishap occurred. 
We saw new settlements, mostly for well-to-do middle class Kenyans, traditional manyattas, a brand new mosque, rows of small country shops, and the wide open plains with herds of thin cattle and goats. Not much grazing or water, but somehow they survive. Finally approaching the glass works, the side of the road is sprinkled with artworks.
The amazing ambiance of the place is dotted with sculptures, animal and mosaic pathways which lead to niches of busy artisans all transforming recycled glass and scraps of other materials into beautiful artworks, jewelry and home ware. The glass used here is from all types of scrap bottles, so also metal trash all recycled from Nairobi and nearby areas. It is like an artists wonderland in the middle of nowhere.

To Quote Nani the founder mother, “Kitengela started as a pioneer homestead and grew into an oasis. As the area is semi-arid, few trees would grow, so I began to build my own shade in the form of sculptures. I encouraged artists from all around to join. Old glass, scrap metal and wastepaper. Glass is my favorite recycling material. I started with bottle shards as mosaic, this evolved into stained glass and then into glass blowing (by my son, Anselm) and beads (by my daughter, Katrineka).”

In the late 1970’s, the family visited the Athi-Kapiti Masailand plains for a picnic. They were so captivated by the outstanding natural beauty of the area with its’ riverine gorge that they decided to move there. In 1979, Nani started the stained glass studio which has evolved over the last twenty five years into a group of studios, all accomplished in their respective skills, including stained glass, glass blowing, dalle de verre, fusing, slumping, mosaic, wrought iron, ferro-cement sculpture, pottery, woodwork and beading.
"We had continuous threats from lions trying to eat our horses and cows and still have ferocious leopards attacking the dogs and poultry.” Incidently this place is abound with beautiful birds, poultry, dogs, horses, cattle and a camel too. I specially loved the daschunds reminding me of my long gone "SP" or Speechka! The Daschunds were amazingly friendly and we had to spend time cuddling them. Normally Daschunds are pretty vicious.
In the Dalle de Verre studio, a trio of skilled artisans are chopping, sorting and casting. Around the corner is the Dalle furnace, fired up for the larger commissions. From this furnace are cast the varying shades and forms of Dalle glass blocks, used for making panels, tables, chairs and sculptures.
Fusing is the melting of glass of various colors and shapes in a special furnace at about 800 degrees Celsius. Here, the glass softens to a degree that individual parts permanently get connected.
36 artisans in various crafts take full advantage of the freedom to dream and create. I have traveled all over a lot and when I traveled to Tanzania, Zanzibar and now Kenya, I can say that the African Tribes are the most talented, creative and the most gifted people of this world. May it be Art, Music or any other creative occupation. Unfortunately those who understood this always took advantage of this fact and continue to do so. The most unfortunate thing I saw  was Masai curios, paintings, shields, ebony sculptures and a whale of other craft  "Made in China" and was selling right besides the poor Masais in their own Masai market at Nakumatt Village. My newly made friend at the market told me with tears in her eyes " How can we survive? Tell me brother when will our days of exploitation end?" She kept saying as she explained and pointed out to me the differences between the two.
Anselm Croze: Each piece is unique, handmade to catch the eye and satisfy the soul. Original works that are 100% recycled, 100% Kenyan – that’s what Anselm’s Kitengela Hot Glass Studios are all about." 
A passionate and practical ensemble of scrap window and bottle glass renewed, refashioned into stylish pieces, functional art and inspired design.”
I would recommend this as a must see place while visiting Nairobi.
I have uploaded a slide show  to get a fair visual idea about this place. The slides start after about 3 minutes of opening this page. Please switch on your speakers.

Ajay








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